Israel cont.

Day 5-

     The rest of our pilgrimage was spent in Jerusalem and the surrounding areas. While in Jerusalem we had a bit more insight to the lives of Palestinians versus Israelis. Within Israel 75% of the people are Jewish; only 35% of those are orthodox Jews. The other 25% are Arabs. 10% of the Arabs are Christians and the rest are Muslims.
     Palestinians are Arabs, a small percentage are Christians and the rest Muslim.
     The Israeli–Palestinian conflict is the ongoing struggle between Israelis and Palestinians that began in the 20th century. (or since biblical times) Ongoing battles wage between the Arabs and the Jews over governmental control and land. In 1967, the Six Day War broke out and Israel seized the Gaza Strip from Egypt, the West Bank from Jordan and the Golan Heights from Syria. And to this day those areas are controlled by Israel. During the last 47 years tension has remained high between the Arabs and the Jews.
     In year 2000, the second Intifada broke out when the Israeli Prime Minister entered a mosque. Suicide bombers and acts of terrorism were initiated by the Palestinians and the Israelis retaliated with military force. Hence, a wall was built much like the Iron Curtain to separate the 'West Bank' (Palestine) from Israel. Security sky rocketed and to this day it is extremely difficult for a Palestinian to enter Israel. There are work passes granted, but highly selective. A Palestinian much be a certain age, clear background, a small window of time to enter and exit Israel per day, and at any moment the police can refuse him right of entrance.
     The Israeli government definitely suppresses the Palestinians. For instance, a Palestinian family is only allotted a bath tub of water per week. Nasser had sympathies with the West Bank because he was originally a Palestinian, but was 'grandfathered' in during the unrest in the 1950s. (Currently, a Palestinian could never become an Israeli citizen.) Needless to say, he trumped up how unjust the Israelis were, which is true. But on the other hand, many of the Palestinians are bluntly, Muslim extremists.  And frankly, if the Palestinians were allowed to run amuck there would be great blood shed. Does that condone Israel? No........who has the answer? Nobody. The Arab-Jewish conflict runs so deep I don't think it will be ended until Christ's second coming.

The Gaza Strip, West Bank and Golan Heights now controlled by Israel.

   

The wall separating the West Bank from Israel. A wall was also constructed around the Gaza Strip.

The settlements(above) are yet another source of strife between the Palestinians and Israelis. During the last 10 years, Israel seized sections of the West Bank and erected entire towns on the land.  Walls surround the communities and major highways have been built connecting the settlements to Israel. The highways also have huge barriers on either side to protect the Israeli citizens while commuting. Within the settlements the residents can have all the luxuries of Israel: water, schools, parks, pools, etc. although technically the 'oasis' lies in the West Bank. 

Bottom line, the Israelis want to slowly push the Palestinians out completely. Large numbers left during the 1948 Palestinian Exodus. And Israel keeps infringing on the Palestinians land with these settlements. 

It really is a mess. The political leaders go around in circles arguing about a two state agreement. Before that can happen however, these questions would have to be answered: What would happen to the settlements? Would the refugees be allowed to come back? Who would get Jerusalem? And personally, I think those questions will remain unanswered for ever.

Shepherds Fields
     We celebrated Mass in a cave near Bethlehem, similar to what Jesus would have been born in. The cave dated to the time of Jesus. I appreciated visiting the cave more than the Church of the Nativity, which would have been the probable spot of the actual cave where Jesus was born. Its kinda a shame these huge churches have been built over the holy spots. To me, the places seem less impressive with a magnanimous shrine completely obliterating what it actually looked like.

Miniature Model of Old Jerusalem

     Alex and I thought this was one of the coolest things we saw. It was an gigantic model of Old Jerusalem. I am just gonna make a few notes because I don't want to forget, but it probably won't make sense to a person reading this. 

-Mount Zion was inside the old wall.

-Calvary was right outside the wall to the west. 

-City of David was to the south of the temple.

-Place of Judgement was to right of temple. (Pontious Pilate would have been in Jerusalem at the time of Crucifixion to keep order during Passover. And this is where he interrogated Jesus.)

-High Priests house was on Mount Zion.

-Pool of Bethesda was to North of the Temple.

-The palace was on the Western side of the city.

-Kidron and Ghena valleys met at south side of city wall. 

     

The weather couldn't have been better! Low 80s and sunny everyday!

Our motel sat several blocks from the old city, so after dinner we adventured in to Old Jerusalem. Most of the roads within the old city are too small for cars. Shops and restaurants line the tiny alley ways. Of course, we got a little turned around. I kept telling Alex, "We need to ask for directions....you have no idea where we are." And in true fashion, he kept assuring me he knew exactly how to get out of the old city. So....we wandered from the Christian quarter to the Armenian quarter to the Jewish quarter and finally dead ended at the Muslim quarter. There was security monitoring the entrance to the Muslim section, which we were not allowed to enter for safety reasons. Finally, I ran in to a shop and asked for directions. I was getting a little nervous as all the shops started to close. Those alleys were getting pretty dark!

Israel cont.

Day 4-

Harmon River Springs/Caesarea Philippi
     The first stop on day 4 was the Harmon River Springs. It is one of two rivers that feed the Jordan and very likely the spot where Jesus told Peter, "Upon this rock I will build my Church." I found this summary on the internet and the explanation is better than anything I could write so here it is:


     Caesarea Philippi, which stood in a lush area near the foot of Mount Harmon, was a city dominated by immoral activities and pagan worship. Caesarea Philippi's location was especially unique because it stood at the base of a cliff where spring water flowed. At one time, the water ran directly from the mouth of a cave set in the bottom of the cliff.     
     To the pagan mind, the cave and spring water at Caesarea Philippi created a gate to the underworld. They believed that their city was literally at the gates of the underworld—the gates of hell. In order to entice the return of their god, Pan, each year, the people of Caesarea Philippi engaged in horrible deeds, including prostitution and sexual interaction between humans and goats.
     When Jesus brought his disciples to the area, they must have been shocked. Caesarea Philippi was like a red-light district in their world and devout Jews would have avoided any contact with the despicable acts committed there.
     Standing near the pagan temples of Caesarea Philippi, Jesus asked his disciples "Who do you say that I am?" Peter boldly replied, "You are the Son of the living God." Jesus continued, "You are Peter, and on this rock I will build my church, and the gates of Hades will not overcome it" (see Matt. 16:13-20).

http://www.followtherabbi.com/journey/israel/gates-of-hell/

Harmon River

The Temple to Pan

More of the temple ruins.

Standing above the Harmon River was Mount Harmon, the highest point in Israel at 9,000 feet. There was debate whether the Transfiguration happened there or on the top of Mount Tabor. At some point, the Church chose Mt. Tabor as the official site so that a shrine could be built. Personally, it seems more plausible that it was Mount Harmon. 

Our next stop: Jerusalem! Along the way we passed Mount Tabor, the desert where the Israelites wandered around for 40 years and the camps of the Bedwins. The Bedwins are a tribe in Israel whom live in little settlements. They have no identity and no way of getting any identification. Fifty years ago the government tried to blend them into society. Some did, but others refused and live without running water and in tents to this day. The Bedwins used to be a nomadic people, but obviously the Jewish government will not allow them to camp out wherever they want anymore. The settlements are in a permanent location now. Nasser explained that one man is the ruler of the camp. He has multiple wives, multiple children and within the camps there is no education or health care and a great deal of filth and incest. Totally mind boggling and sad! As I watched the dirt stained face of a little boy running amongst the goats in ramshackle fences, I wondered what his life was like? And how heart breaking, that even if that little boy wanted to better himself it would be totally impossible.

The desert.

AJ......you never would have made it for 40 years!

Israel cont.

Day 3-

Sea of Galilee      

     We started day three with a boat ride on the Sea of Galilee. It was a sunny, warm morning and a slight haze lifted as we pulled away from shore. Ten minutes into the ride the captain turned on music. Immediately, I teared up when I heard, "Oh Lord my God, when I in awesome wonder, consider all the worlds Thy hands have made....." There were only two wishes I remember Theresa having before she died: That the twins be raised wholesome Catholics and that How Great Thou Art would be played at her funeral.  I delight in the lyrics of this song because they allude to the very nature of Theresa's person! After the song and a few others had been played Fr. Guido asked us to sit for a meditation. And his meditation was on the very notion that I have struggled with since Theresa died, that is: faith can move mountains.
     During the last 9 months of Theresa's life I knew how grim the outlook was. My gut feeling from the moment she announced to me that her platelets were low, screamed that she didn't have a chance. However, I told myself that if I believed enough, possessed enough faith.....God would spare her life. I simply thought that death was not an option if I didn't think about it. Therefore, we rarely visited the the topic of dying and any of the specifics associated with it. Moreover, certain members of the family were convinced that she should have as much fun as possible, to keep her mind off the inevitable. More than once, I was told to avoid any serious discussion and keep Theresa focused on future endeavors. Don't get me wrong, I think that with chronic illness this aspect is important; however, it should not overshadow the ultimate questions in life. Life is short and frankly, not all about fun. Needless to say, my conscience urged me to bring these topics up anyway, but I shut that little voice down for two reasons.
     First, I didn't want to offend her husband. I felt caught between a rock and a hard place. I loved Theresa inherently, without reserve. At the same time though, I knew the importance of a spousal relationship and feared treading on the marriage vow. Now, I regret holding back....but hindsight is always 20/20. Secondly, I thought by talking about dying I might be doubting the possibility of a miracle. Oh, how naive I was! I viewed faith as some kinda magic! It has taken me a year and a half since Theresa's death to understand that faith does not merely move mountains. Faith is even greater than that! Which brings me back to Fr. Guido's meditation.
     Fr. Guido explained that most Hebrew words are associated with ideas. The Hebrew word 'sea' is associated with one's life and the continuum of earthly time. Father continued to say that the word 'mountain' is associated with a mystery of God. Therefore, faith that can move mountains metaphorically means the kind of faith that can move God mysteries(the mountains) in to our lives(the sea). Faith enables us to grasp on to something larger than a mountain, a mystery of God. We may never totally understand those mysteries, but faith allows us the ability to embrace them.
     Ha! And there was the answer I had been searching for. How simple!
     One last incidence completes my story. How Great Thou Art was played twice on the pilgrimage. Once on the Sea of Galilee, as previously mentioned. The other time was during the Mass said in Notre Dame, which lies on top of Mount Zion, the highest point in Jerusalem. I listened to those beautiful lyrics on a sea (my life) and a mountain (God mystery-Theresa's death). To some, it may seem like coincidence. But I think, Theresa's heavenly prayers were shining grace upon me.

Gotta love those yellow hats....

Just soaking up the sun.

Church of Peter's Primacy

     Church built upon the supposed site where Jesus reinstated Peter as the leader among the apostles. According to tradition this is the spot where Jesus laid out a breakfast of bread and fish for the Apostles and told Peter, "Feed my sheep" after the miraculous catch and third time He appeared to them after His resurrection. 

Fr. Guido celebrated Mass on the beautiful church grounds. Of course, the gospel reading was John, chapter 21 when Jesus appeared on the shore. Father explained in his sermon that in the original Greek text John uses different words for love: phileo, which means more or less a human love and agapao, which means to die for someone. The Greek text would read like this:

Jesus: Simon, son of John, do you love me like you would die for me? 

Peter: Yes Lord, I love you but only with a human love.

            ............

Jesus: Simon, son of John, do you love me like you would die for me?

Peter: Yes Lord, I love you but only with a human love.

            ............

Jesus: Simon, son of John, do you love me with human love?

Peter: Lord, you know everything, you know I can only love you with a human love.

Jesus continues: "Amen, amen, I say to you, when you were younger, you used to dress yourself and go where you wanted; but when you grow old, you will stretch out your hands, and someone will dress you and lead you here you do not want to go." He said this signifying by what kind of death he would glorify God. (John 21:18).

Fr. Guido's interpretation of the reading was that as mere humans we are only capable of loving with a human love. However, when we allow Christ in to our hearts, He transforms us. Christ's love working through us, enables us to act in ways we never could have dreamed of. Jesus says to Peter, 'Ya........when you were young and didn't know me you did whatever you wanted, but now......now that you know who I am and have accepted me in to your heart.....I will lead you to places you don't want to go. You will follow, even to the point of crucifixion, because I live in you. By My grace, your love will be perfected."

LUNCH

     

Talapia caught from the Sea of Galilee. In Israel it is referred to as, St. Peter's Fish.

Fresh squeezed pomegranate juice. It was DELICIOUS!

Capernaum

     Capernaum is the town where St. Peter's mother-in-law lived. Jesus resided there for 20 months when He first started his ministry. 

     Nasser was constantly making wise cracks about his mother-in-law. Obviously, it was a rather strained relationship. But it all made sense when he told us his mother-in-law was his cousin! Anyway here was one of his jokes: 

     A man visits the Holy Land with his mother-in-law. While on the trip the mother-in-law falls ill and dies. The son asks how much a burial will cost. The grounds keeper tells him that to ship her home it will cost $10,000 but a simple burial in the Holy Land will cost $500. The son ponders a moment and replies, "Ship her home." The puzzled ground keeper responds, "Why not bury her here? It would be a fraction of the cost of shipping her home." The son says, "About 2,000 years ago a man died in this land and three days later rose from the dead. I don't think I can take that kind of chance."

This is factually Capernaum from the time of Jesus. Of course, it was uncovered years later and only waist high walls are left. 

The church built over St. Peter's mother-in-law's house. Ugly....I know.

The house where Jesus resided while in Capernaum. Also, where the cripple was lowered through the roof to be healed by Jesus. 

Mount of the Beatitudes

     The Mount of the Beatitudes was a hill overlooking the Sea of Galilee. The grounds were spectacularly landscaped. However, this was a traditional site, not factual.

I was feeling like a dog....blah...

And that wrapped up day 3. Our motel was right on the Sea of Galilee so Alex and I spent the evening enjoying the sunset.

     

19

Israel cont.

Day 2-

Fr. Guido: Our spiritual guide. He was a native to Holland, but had lived in Jerusalem for 7 years from 1997-2004. I think this gave him an exceptional outlook and advantage to other priests had we been on another tour. His homilies and meditations were out of this world!

Nasser: Our guide. A interesting melancholic to be sure! Alex and I found him a wealth of information and quite a kick in the pants. He was a Palestinian Arab Christian Israeli Citizen. He would say, "No doubt, you come here and are confused about my country. When you leave, if you are still confused.....then you understand my country!" Although we learned an entire college class of information on the pilgrimage....Nasser was still right!


CAESAREA:
     We started the second day with a visit to Caesarea. Caesarea was a Mediterranean town built by King Herod the Great. Herod was the King of Judea appointed by Rome. He was of Jewish descent, however, because of his murderous acts and love of power the Jews hardly considered him of Jewish faith. He was not a venerated king among them.
     King Herod built Caesarea in 12 years which would be phenomenal even in todays standards. The city was considered very modern for it's time. It boasted an amphitheater and running water. 12 miles of aqueduct brought water to the city from the Mount Carmel Mountains. A palace was erected next to the the sea, that even sported an 'infinity' pool. The pool was built at a slightly higher elevation than the sea, but with underground channels that allowed water to flow in at the pools' bottom.
     Herod named the city after Caesar and gifted it to him. His purpose being: to gain favor with Rome.  His was neither liked by the Jews or Romans, hence looked for ways to please both peoples.
     Caesarea is important in Christian history because it was the place where the first gentiles converted.

Ruins of the palace.

What was left of the swimming pool.

C'mon AJ...jump in! The water was sooooo warm.

I simply love the Mediterranean!

The amphitheater. 

Remains of the aqueduct.Yes.....that is Alex.

Really....I just wanted to go swimming.....

HAIFA

     We continued on to the city of Haifa where lunch was hosted by the Carmelite sisters. Prior to lunch we visited the House of Grace and the Church of Our Lady of Mount Carmel. 

     The House of Grace was founded in 1985 by Kamil and Agnes Shahade to help convicts, battered women and children regardless of religion.  As a young man Kamil possessed a fiery temperament and violent nature. However, after spending a year at the Madonna House in Canada he came back a changed man, a man with a vision to minister to the out casts.  Kamil had since passed away but the house was still ran by his wife and 4 sons. One of his sons gave us the tour. He spoke of how he grew up with convicts sleeping in the next room and yet not once was their family robbed or hurt. It was a beautiful story! Fr. Guido explained that this was one of the few ministries in all of Israel that reached out to all people whether Jewish, Arab, Muslim or Christian. We were blest to visit the House of Grace because Fr. Guido had known Kamil and the family. Most tours do not stop there. 

The entrance to the House of Grace. Our fearless guide is on the right. And those yellow hats.....that's our group!

The church(restored) that had been the abandoned building were the House of Grace started.

Our next stop in Haifa was Lady of Mount Carmel. The church was supposedly built upon the cave where Elijah hid when Ahab and Jezabel wanted to kill him. 

Right in the middle of Haifa were the Bahai Gardens: a place of worship for people of Bahai Faith, which frankly I had never heard of. 

Haifa- Driving through Haifa we saw neighborhoods completely abandoned. Nasser explained that these empty houses were the result of the 1948 Palestinian Exodus. During the civil war around 80% of the Arab inhabitants where expelled from their homes in Israel. The causes are just one of the many disagreements between Arabs and Israelis. But factors involved were Jewish military advances,  voluntary self removal, collapse of Palestinian leadership and unwillingness to live under Jewish control. The Palestinians considered it ethnic cleansing, while the Jewish government would dispute that. 

NAZARETH

     Our first stop in Nazareth was to the Sisters of Nazareth. Again, we only had this opportunity due to Fr. Guido's connections. Sister Irish was the little old sister who gave us the tour. And before I launch into the details, I must say that I can find nothing on the internet that reveals the story of Sister Irish. Moreover, if I asked any pilgrim where the site of the Holy Family's house was he/she would reply, "Under the Franciscan church next to the Basilica of the Annunciation." 

     However, this was Sister Irish's story: The Sisters of Nazareth came from France to Israel around 1900. They acquired a pricey piece of land in Nazareth to build their convent on. During the 1960s when repairs were being made to the foundation a large cavern was found under the convent. Further excavation uncovered a very old well and a cave which housed an altar and tomb. The tomb contained the skeleton of a man buried sitting up right and a ring was on his finger. This indicated he was a bishop. He was not buried facing the altar but towards the door of the cave. The sisters continued digging in the direction the bishop faced. They found what appeared to be a remains of a church, which was built on top of an old dwelling dating to Jesus' time. Beneath the dwelling was a tomb. When the seal of the tomb was opened, burial incense filled the entire vault and Sister Irish said they smelled it for days. The burial place had two chambers, most likely for a husband and wife. In the first century often the loved one was buried beneath the home so that the spirit would remain close by.

     Of course, this is not factual, but the sisters had to wonder if this indeed was the Holy Family's home. It seemed odd that two churches had been built near this ancient cave dwelling, a bishop had been buried facing that cave dwelling and that two tombs indicated a married couple. 

The marks left from the rope used to pull the bucket up from the well. This well also dated to Jesus' time.

The church were the bishop was buried. Terrible picture! The altar is in the center, but I didn't get a picture of the bishop's tomb. 

The steps leading up to the church which had been built on top of the dwelling. (Tom and John on the right....they were some of our favorites on the pilgrimage.)

The possible home of the Holy Family.

The burial chamber under the house. Notice the rounded rock to the right.....very similar to what would have been rolled in front of Christ's tomb.

This is Nazareth. It was built on a hill and in Jesus's time would have only been a town of approx. 400 people. Most of  the houses would have been caves hewn into the hill side. 

Our second stop in Nazareth was the Basilica of the Annunciation: Built over the supposed cave that Mary received the message from Angel Gabriel that she would conceive Our Lord. 

Behind the people is the spot venerated as the site of the Annunciation.

We concluded our second day at a motel on the Sea of Galilee.